Zhoumo kuaile!

Before I leave you for the weekend, here's a recap of Cambodia with our take on some its "bests" --

Best Dish:
We had fish amok at practically every meal. It's similar to a Thai curry (think: lime, lemongrass and coconut milk) but without the heat. We loved it so much we left Cambodia with a few packets of amok spices in order to recreate the dish at home.

Best Temple:
Although Angkor Wat is the main attraction and Ta Prohm is the most popular thanks to Angelina Jolie, we liked Ta Nei the best. The only ones exploring it, we felt like tomb raiders ourselves. Its seclusion and its time-worn beauty was why this one quickly became our favorite.

Best Hotel:
We loved where we stayed, la Residence d'Angkor. It's a beautiful hotel with a lovely staff and a gorgeous pool in a great location. That said, we had drinks one evening at the Park Hyatt, which, from the bar at least, was exquisite.

Best Part: 
The people. Cambodians have such a wonderful air about them. They're warm and gracious, and remain hopeful for the future. Many have lived through hell (also known as the Khmer Rouge) and many live in dire straits, but they exhibit such grace and dignity. There's a lesson there.

Cambodia Photos

HERE are our favorites from the trip.  These too:

A Day at the Temples

We woke up early Saturday (like 4:00 a.m. early) to catch the sunrise at Angkor Wat. I had read that it was something to experience -- and a way to beat the crowds. We jumped in a tuk tuk with our guide for the day, Mr. Hong, and at the ticket booth, discovered that other tourists had apparently read the same thing. Thankfully, our guide took us to the back entrance of the temple where we were able to climb to the highest tower and watch the sun rise to the chanting of Buddhist monks. It was an experience I'll likely never forget.

We explored Angkor Wat, originally a Hindu temple built around the same time as Westminster Abbey. What boggled our mind the most: The sandstone blocks from which Angkor Wat was built were quarried more than 50km away. A mind-blowing feat and an amazing site. 

Next was Ta Nei Temple. Luckily for us, our guide hates crowds (ironic, no?) and took us to a secluded temple where we were the only ones walking around, awestruck. 

Then, Ta Keo Temple and Ta Prohm, nicknamed the Tomb Raider temple where ancient stones are cloaked in moss and smothered by tree roots  -- "There is a poetic cycle to this venerable ruin, with humanity first conquering nature to rapidly create, and nature once again conquering humanity to slowly destroy" (Lonely Planet). 

Our day ended at Angkor Thom, a large complex (10 sq km) home to the Bayon, famous for its 54 gothic towers and 216 smiling faces.  

What's amazing is that these temples have only recently been discovered -- and there's more. But land mines and a lack of funding leave ancient history in the past for now. 

More photos to come. In the meantime, fun fact: Mr. Hong was a clue-giver in Amazing Race 13.  

Trip of a Lifetime

We had an amazing time in Cambodia. It is an incredible country, emerging out of a miserable history with grace and renewed hope, but not without an overlay of contradiction. I liked Lonely Planet's description:

"There are two faces to Cambodia: one shiny and happy, the other dark and complex. (...)  Such is the yin and yang of Cambodia, a country that both inspires and confounds. Like an onion, the more layers you unravel, the more it makes you want to cry, sometimes in sorrow, sometimes in joy." 

We landed late Thursday night and decided to check out Pub Street, crowded with young, drunk backpackers. We partook -- how could we not? Beers were $1. But being the old folks that we are, we tuk tuk'd home after just a few. (A quick note on tuk tuks: they are awesome and plentiful; after consenting to "lady, tuk tuk?", I enjoyed multiple rides in a small cabin on wheels attached to the back of a motorcycle for a buck.)

The next day, we rented bikes from our hotel and rode about 11km to the port of Chong Kneas outside Siem Reap. We passed by smiling children playing in dirty river water, emaciated animals finding refuge in the shade, workers welding on the side of the dusty gravel road. It's a life so different from our own; everyone should see how this part of the world lives.

After purchasing a $15 ticket at the port (down from $20), we took a boat to the village of Chong Kneas where big, empty barrels serve as floating devices for homes, shops, schools and even a church. This fisherman village is terribly poor and suffers great loss when storms hit. And with poverty comes desperation. Women with children practically chased us -- as much as one can in a rowboat -- offering up a photo opp for a dollar. (One woman had put a rather large snake (harmless but still) around her two-year-old daughter to get our attention.)

We're currently sifting through 200+ photos and I'll share them as soon as they're up. Day two in Siem Reap coming tomorrow...

Zhoumo kuaile (early)!

"Angkor is one of the most impressive ancient sites on earth, with the epic proportions of the Great Wall of China, the detail and intricacy of the Taj Mahal and the symbolism and symmetry of the Egyptian pyramids all rolled into one." -- Lonely Planet, Cambodia

In a few hours, we're off to Siem Reap (finally). Photos and travel tales to come. I can't wait!