Fatty Tuesday: Vietnamese Food

Food wasn't the only reason why we chose to travel to Vietnam, but it was a big motivator. We were excited to try pho and banh mis from the source. Come to find out, good Vietnamese food is hard to come by in Vietnam.

Our first dinner in Saigon was a Lonely Planet "top choice." It was more so "meh," so much so that I couldn't tell you what we ordered 'cause I can't remember what we ate. The next day, we tried pho at a local hotspot (literally) aptly named Pho Hoa. In 90-degree heat and 75-percent humidity, I couldn't bring myself to take down a hot bowl of steaming beef noodle soup. Not surprisingly, Mike took one for the team and I got to try some of his. The broth was delicious; I could have held the bowl to my mouth and drank the whole thing myself, even in the heat and humidity.

The food tour on night two was the highlight of our foodie adventures. Tiger Tours took us first to a make-your-own-summer-rolls joint where we wrapped grilled pieces of marinated pork and beef in rice paper, adding lettuce, fresh herbs, and pickled veggies. This was our favorite. The second stop required a more open mind: besides grilled shrimp, we sampled goat udder and crocodile curry. Goat udder? Chewy and not a favorite. Crocodile? Also chewy and similar to (you guessed it) chicken. The third restaurant specialized in seafood: the chili crab and the small, delicate scallops were the most memorable of our dishes there. We ended on a sweet note with a simple flan for me and a coconut-mango combination for Mike.

Summer rolls; goat udder and okra; chili crab; crocodile curry

Once we got to Hanoi, we made it our mission to find a banh mi since we hadn't had one up to that point in the trip. We tried several and grew more disappointed after every one. Slices of gelatinous meat and pâté replaced the grilled pork and pickled vegetables we had been expecting. We all agreed: we couldn't wait to get home to get ourselves a good banh mi.

Our one dinner in Hanoi slightly made up for our food losses. Madame Hien served up a foie gras pho that won't likely be forgotten. But overall, I have to say, we weren't too impressed with what we ate. Perhaps expectations were set too high. Perhaps we just didn't know where to go.

Fatty Tuesday: Challenge Met

Remember the burger challenge Mike attempted last month? Well, my cousin heard about it and couldn't pass up the opportunity to leave his mark in Shanghai -- or at least attempt to do so.

Slightly nervous at the start, he made it look easy and destroyed the three-patty burger with minutes to spare.

Doesn't he look oh-so-proud of himself? As well he should be, immortalized on the wall of Burger Bistro in Shanghai, China.

Fatty Tuesday: The Food Challenge

I bet you didn't think there were food challenges in Shanghai, à la Adam Richman in Man v. Food. I certainly didn't. Before Mike and I moved to China, Man v. Food was one of the few shows we'd enjoy watching together (as enjoyable as watching a man stuff his pie hole to the point of illness can be; what can I say? I wasn't into Monday Night Football, he wasn't into Real Housewives of Orange County.). Anyway, I digress.

Ever since we tried our local burger joint (yes, we have a local burger joint in the name of Burger Bistro), Mike has threatened to attempt its challenge: a three-stack burger with extra trimmings -- grilled onions, bacon, a fried egg, lettuce, tomato, and pickles -- a side of fries and a classic milkshake. To be cleared in 15 minutes. Are you shaking your head yet? 'Cause I was. The whole time.

The monstrosity arrived, an edible skyscraper made of beef patties and buns, brightened by yellow yolk and a red tomato who, with the green lettuce leaf, hold on to the empty promise of health. There was no way. But my husband gave it his best effort, going about the ridiculous thing methodically, eating one patty-bun at a time and dunking fries into his milkshake. Until he hit the wall. It came on hard and sudden, and he was done. A failed attempt, but certainly not for lack of trying. Bravo, my love. Now I hope you'll never want to do such a silly thing again.

The consolation prize: a polaroid

Fatty Tuesday: Taiwanese Street Food (Part I)

Now I get it, now I understand the love for street food in Taipei!

It was a little challenging to get it all in between family meals, but we did our best. In fact, I think we did so well that I'm going to have to make this a two-parter. Here are some of the most interesting (and delicious) items we tried during our short trip to Taiwan -- Part I.

Grilled rice cakes
Have you ever tried mochi ice cream? Usually served for dessert after sushi, it's ice cream wrapped in a layer of rice that's been pounded into a paste. Imagine taking a big, rectangular piece of that paste, putting it on a stick, and grilling it until it softens and forms a crispy outer layer.

Once grilled to perfection, it's removed from the fire and topped with a squirt of your choice of sauce. Sauces come in a variety of flavors; we tried brown sugar and Thai curry. Both were liquidy and subtly sweet, and curiously tasted just as described.

If I lived in Taipei, I'd make it a goal of mine to try every sauce. 

Sausage-wrapped sausage 
Yes, a sausage wrapped in another sausage. It's a salty, sweet Chinese sausage that forgoes the bun for rice stuffed in a sausage casing (see the "sausages" in the foreground?).

Once both sausages are ready, the grillmaster slits the rice sausage down its middle and inserts the meat one, adding various toppings (such as kimchi and pickled vegetables) and sweet and/or spicy sauce(s).

Ice cream burrito
How could I not try this one? It's like two of my favorite things rolled into one. The "chef" first shaves peanut candy from a large block (see bottom left of photo) and places those shavings onto a thin Chinese crepe of sorts. He then adds two scoops of taro root ice cream and tops it all off with cilantro before wrapping it up like a burrito.

I won't lie, this one was a bit odd -- the cilantro, I just didn't get. But it was worth a try! 

We found these all of these goodies in the Ximen neighborhood of Taipei, not far from the subway station there. 

Fatty Teaching Tuesday

First, the Fatty -
This past weekend we went on a wild "chicken and waffles" chase for City Weekend in an attempt to find the top three in Shanghai. Yes, Shanghai has chicken and waffles, and yes (shockingly!) there's more than one restaurant that serves the popular brunch dish. In fact, we found five! Stay tuned to find out which ones won the top spots. If you're ever in Shanghai... and feel like chicken and waffles...

Now on to the Teaching -
The kids' lesson today: toys! Dolls and trains and games and airplanes. Mine: I learned that there's a mandatory five-minute self-massage session in the middle of the afternoon. The kids are supposed to sit quietly as they massage their eye sockets. It's kind of fun to watch; they look like little executives contemplating their next acquisition. Apparently, the practice is in line with traditional Chinese medicine and is supposed to calm the children down. I'm not sure it does that (there were multiple ruler incidents this afternoon), but I appreciate the tradition, certainly.

Fatty Tuesday: Cod Sperm Sack Sushi, Among Other Foodstuffs

Did today's headline grab your attention? Don't worry, I'll get to the sushi shortly.

We had some great food in Japan; it's a cuisine I probably wouldn't tire of too quickly. Here's a recap of some of our meals on the trip.  

Ramen: We had ramen our first night in Japan (in Sapporo) and again in Tokyo. It's the Japanese version of chicken soup for the soul: piping hot, tasty broth (usually pork-based, miso-flavored at times), incredibly fresh noodles, a perfectly soft-boiled egg, a crisp piece of seaweed, and crunchy bean sprouts. Versions vary, of course, but even the most basic is delicious on a cold day. Afuri Ramen in Tokyo is the spot and ordering is an adventure (orders are placed via a "no English" vending machine at the front of the restaurant).

http://www.pinterest.com/pin/165296248797846963/

Yakatori: In the simplest of terms, yakatori is meat and veggies on sticks. Grilled. Over coals. I liked it. But there's not much else to say about it. 

Tonkatsu: Perhaps the opposite of yakatori (at least in terms of calories), tonkatsu is a piece of perfectly fried pork (cutlet or loin). Its coating is panko bread crumbs, and its sides are crispy cabbage with a sesame dressing that's lick-your-bowl good and fluffy, white rice. The best part? Creating your own dipping sauce by grinding up sesame seeds yourself using a small pestle and mortar, and adding tonkatsu sauce, which is part sweet, part sour.  

http://www.pinterest.com/pin/165296248797846962/

Sushi: We had sushi a few times, but most notably at the Tsukiji Fish Market and before leaving for the airport. The Tsukiji Market is the biggest wholesale fish and seafood market in the world and home to a number of small sushi spots. Tourists line up for one in particular, but knowing that the chefs all get access to the same fresh fish, we exchanged our spot in line, outside in the cold, for two seats inside another restaurant. The move was smart. It was sushi unlike any other I've had -- beautifully cut pieces of fish that sit atop a small pillow of rice perfectly balanced in terms of flavor and temperature, and that simply melt in your mouth.

Lunch on our last day had to be sushi again, but this time, inside a large mall in Shibuya, omakase-style (allowing the sushi chef to decide what we eat). I told myself that I had to eat everything put in front of me. And I did (for the most part). Cod sperm sack sushi included.

Can you guess which piece is the shirako, or cod sperm sack sushi?

So I didn't eat the raw shrimp sushi, because I've had it before and I'm not a fan of the film it leaves in your mouth. I also didn't suck on its head. But everything else! Here's what I learned: I'm not a fan of uni, but I can do salmon roe. And cod sperm sacks are creamy. (By the way, LA friends, you too can have shirako nigiri at Hamasaku; check this out.)     

Sweets: A firm believer in having dessert after every meal, I suffer from a major sweet tooth. I loved perusing the aisles of Japanese grocery and convenience stores. Shelves were lined with such interesting-looking items! If I were to live in Japan, my goal in life would be to taste-test every one of them. On this trip, I tried out a few; some were misses, but most were hits and made for delightful edible souvenirs.

Fatty Tuesday: Fortune Cookie

So you all know that American Chinese food isn't really Chinese food, right? Well, two Cornell guys capitalized on this idea and opened up "Fortune Cookie," serving up good ole American Chinese food. Think: lettuce wraps and moo shu pork, take-out boxes and fortune cookies (of course).

We tried it last week and ordered General Tsao's beef, a plate of chow mein, and those lettuce wraps to start. Strangely comforting, it reminded us of home.

It'll be interesting to see if the concept -- bringing what one review called "bastardized Chinese food" to Shanghai -- works here. In the meantime, we'll likely go back and try the orange chicken.

Fatty Tuesday: Shanghai Street Food

It occurred to me that I've written about street food in Chengdu, Hangzhou, and even Seoul, but up until now, have left out Shanghai. It does exists here, and a lot of the time, outside of bars and clubs (kind of like San Francisco's danger dogs). What I find most fascinating about the street food here is the resourcefulness of the vendors whose mode of transportation and food prep/delivery mechanism is not a cart or a truck but a BIKE. Check this out:

Notice the plastic grocery bags of veggies, the makeshift cutting board, the red hose running from a tank of gas to a burner, on top of which sits a wok (being handled vigorously in the upper left). This was the noodle guy.  

Here's another example: a charcoal grill on one side (see it on the right?) and a whole bunch of skewers behind it (from fish-on-a-stick to a whole eggplant), soon to be seasoned and bbq'd. 

To answer the first question on your minds: Yes, we (as in Mike) has gotten a styrofoam container of noodles (with sausage!), and has also eaten a bbq'd eggplant. Both got his seal of approval (I had a few bites; I concur, although not enthusiastically).

And to answer the second question on your minds: No, we did not have to run to the bathroom immediately afterward (surprisingly). 

Fatty Tuesday: Uncle Tetsu

It's been a while so I thought I'd bring back Fatty Tuesday with Uncle Tetsu. Let me explain. Mike and I were having a casual dinner one evening in a nearby food court (quick travel tip: if you're in a major Asian city and have trouble finding a place to eat, go to the top or bottom floor of the closest mall; you're likely to find some decent options). As we made our way out and back home, we noticed a long line of people, waiting patiently for some kind of cake. This is what we saw:

All we knew was that thing cost RMB39 ($6.50); Uncle Tetsu was a cute, short and stumpy little guy (see upper right-hand corner of the second image); and his employee's t-shirt matched his apron (bottom left). 

So what was this glorious dessert that attracted so many individuals? What kind of cake could induce such patience in a characteristically impatient people? Obviously, we got in line to find out. 

Cakes were doled out about a dozen at a time, fresh out of the oven (hence the waiting). As soon as I got a fork, I took a bite of what was the perfect marriage between a cheesecake and an angel food cake -- light and fluffy, sweet and airy, with just the faintest aftertaste of traditional cheesecake. Usually, the only thing I like about cheesecake is the graham cracker crust, and even though it was crustless, I enjoyed Uncle Tetsu's delight. Will I wait in another 30-minute line for it? Probably not. But the experience was fun.  

    

Fatty Tuesday: Balls

The Chinese are not known for their desserts, which include bad (as in flavorless) imitations of French pastries (you've heard the expression, "lipstick on a pig"? In this case, whipped cream is lipstick).  But I've found one Chinese dessert I quite enjoy -- black sesame glutinous (sticky) rice balls (or simply, balls, as I like to call them; don't get any ideas, this is a PG blog).  

Served hot, four (or so) balls arrive in a bowl of warm water or some kind of rice wine syrup (I prefer water; the Chinese aren't great at wine either, although there's been a recent push to market their liquor. I digress). You start by taking a nibble to make sure they've cooled. The outer layer is sticky rice, a lot like mochi if you've ever tried that (and if you haven't, order it after your next sushi meal). Unlike mochi, which comes cold and has ice cream at its center, these balls have a sweet black sesame filling that oozes out as you bite down. I love the contrast in textures, the sticky rice and the liquid center, and the sweet against the neutrality of the sticky. Our visitor liked them too (check out Kira's answer to the "best meal" question).  

Although I first had these at a restaurant, I quickly found out that you can find them in grocery stores and they've become a staple in our freezer ever since (boil water, drop a few in, and ta da!). 

Fatty Tuesday: Singaporean Foodies

They kind of had to take me back to Shanghai kicking and screaming. We had a great mini-vacation in Singapore last weekend, complemented by fantastic food. We explored local dishes our first two nights, starting at Maxwell's, what they call a "hawker centre," an outdoor/indoor venue with food stalls and casual seating (Maxwell's is supposed to be the best, btw).

We ordered the staples: chicken rice (which is lovely, tender chicken served with rice made in its broth, dipped in ginger sauce, and sweet, black soya sauce, and chili sauce), noodles with seafood (which reminded me of pad thai; bottom of photo on the right), and fried carrot cake (which initially didn't sound appealing to me only because I took the dish's name literally; come to find out, there's no carrot in carrot cake; instead, it's radish cake (steamed rice flour, water, and shredded white daikon), stir-fried with eggs, preserved radish, and other seasonings). It became my favorite.  

The next night, I discovered Singapore chili crab, which I thoroughly enjoyed (even though I don't normally enjoy crab; it's too much work -- but when it's covered in a thick, spicy, tomato-based sauce and served with sweet buns, it's worth the effort).  

We quickly found out that Singapore is quite the foodie haven, where several celebrity chefs have opened shop: Wolfgang Puck, Mario Batali, Guy Savoy, Joel Robuchon, Daniel Boulud, to name a few. So on Saturday night, our last night in Singapore, we decided to splurge and dine at Battali's Osteria Mozza (yes, LA, you have one too). It was extraordinary. We started with burrata over grilled asparagus and toasted almonds; for il primi, Mike got the gnocchi (what wonderfully delicious little dumplings!), and I got the best pasta dish of my life in the form of one, large ravioli covered in brown butter sauce (when cut open, the yolk of an egg oozed out onto my plate, and as I chewed slowly, savoring every bite, I tasted the perfect balance of pasta, ricotta, and egg). My secondi was lamb atop a mint yogurt sauce (yum!), and dessert was a molten chocolate cake with bourbon ice cream (to satisfy both of our cravings). An awesome meal to top off a really lovely getaway.

    

Fatty Tuesday: La Maison Gourmande

There are lots of Frenchies here in Shanghai, and lots of French restaurants, which makes this francophile a happy girl. "La Maison Gourmande" is a cafe around the corner from us, and, intrigued, I had Mike meet me there after yoga class a few Saturdays ago. I thought we'd have a quick coffee and croissant, but little did I know that we were in for much more than a casual bite.  

Instead of simple breakfast options, the menu offered plates of substance like a beef stew, which Mike ended up ordering. I got the set brunch, which was a collection of small bites grouped into three courses -- the app, the main, and the dessert (below). The food was playful (like the bite of chocolate lava cake inside of an egg shell) and presented beautifully. And it was good -- I wouldn't call it amazing, but overall, very good. The meal, however, came at a hefty price, and I'm not sure I'd do it over again. When it comes to a weekend brunch, I think I prefer quick and casual over formal and pricey.  

Before

After

Fatty Tuesday: Homemade Enchiladas

We've been dying for good Mexican food. Yes, you can find Mexican in Shanghai, but it's fancy Mexican, in restaurants with nice tables and chairs, made by Chinese cooks. It's not good, dirty Mexican (and I mean that in the best possible way). I've been spoiled with authentic burritos and tacos and quesadillas for most of my life -- what can I say?      

So we took it upon ourselves to make enchiladas at home one evening. The challenge, yet again, was finding all of the ingredients. Here's where we went:

• Yasmin's, the butcher, for chicken (as close to organic/grain-fed/cage-free as we're going to get here)
• Avocado Lady for veggies, a jar of jalapenos, sour cream and corn tortillas (we had to buy a pack of about 50 and freeze what we didn't use)
• Enchilada sauce from City Shop for almost $4/can (there'd be outrage at home for that kind of price for a canned good!)    
• Cheese at Pines, the slightly cheaper City Shop (aka, foreigner-friendly market)

The result was so tasty, we made them again the following week.     

Fatty Tuesday: Sichuan Citizen

Remember my initial restaurant observations? 

• Most restaurant menus in Shanghai are ten to 20 pages long. 
• Thankfully, almost all of them have pictures; some of them have funny translations. 
• It's no wonder that they may be out of what you order (out of 100+ options, they have to run out of a few items on some nights). 
• Food comes out almost instantly. "How is this possible," you ask? I think I'd prefer not to know. Let's move on.  

After sifting through the book-sized menu at Sichuan Citizen, we decided on fish, bok choy, kung pao jiding (you know what that is, right?) and honey walnut shrimp -- which is somewhat amusing since most of these dishes are considered very American Chinese food. (And here I was, proud of myself for finally dedicating a Fatty Tuesday to Chinese food.)   

The star of the show was the fish.  But be forewarned -- for those of you who require clean filets, boned and skinned, don't order fish in China, because this is what you'll get, eyeballs and all:

At fancy restaurants in China, waiters bring the fish you ordered to your table alive and in a bucket as proof of freshness. Sichuan Citizen was not fancy -- no show of squirming fish -- but it was good. Next time we go, though, I'd probably order other dishes since there isn't a shortage of choices.

Fatty Tuesday: Fish Pic

This is a bit of a cop-out, I know and I'm sorry, but I have a good excuse (#firstweekofwork). Here's a pic from another yummy fish-and-chips meal we had at The Sailors this past weekend. (I promise we eat Chinese food too.) 

Fatty Tuesday: BBQ and Bibimbap and More

We ate well in Korea, and although I can't say that it's my favorite cuisine (sorry, Rich!), it was fun being adventurous with food and trying new dishes. 

Our first night, while awaiting the arrival of our travel buddies, Mike and I went to a BBQ spot recommended by our hotel. Instead of BBQ, though, we got a Korean version of hot pot (= various ingredients cooked in boiling broth; the Chinese love it). By the way, this is a frequent occurrence in Asia -- when you don't read or speak the language, and you rely on pretty pictures for ordering, you get lots of surprises when the food comes out. Even though it may not have been exactly what we had expected, it was good! The meat was perfectly marinated and made for a delicious soup at the end of our meal. All of the side dishes were fun too, but, I must admit, I didn't love too many of them (cold soup and iced noodles, for example, and kimchi, of course -- which, I found, I'd prefer to handle in small doses).   

While exploring the city, we happened upon some awesome street food. Not sure what all of it was, but  what we did taste was fantastic -- a fried potato on a stick, some kind of donut with a sweet, nutty filling (not pictured; I was too distracted by its yumminess to photograph it), and kimchi fried rice (served from inside a small hut; bottom photos).

There was some tofu soup -- but I must admit, I like Tofuya's better (our spot in LA) -- and there was some bibimbap, but the highlight meal was our last one in Seoul. After some quick research, we decided on Gae Hwa Oak. It was an adventure finding the restaurant (and we only found it thanks to one very nice Korean cab driver), but when we did reach it, we stayed for hours. We were treated to nine courses (I think, 'cause we lost count after a while), made up of dishes with several ingredients I wasn't familiar with. There was some kind of crunchy root vegetable topped with seaweed and egg white (which rendered it somewhat slimy, but somehow, we couldn't stop eating it); abalone (which I'm not sure I'd order again); there were several different kinds of kimchi, served with thinly sliced pieces of beef and chunks of pork belly; perfectly grilled vegetables; and, marinated meats that could sway the strictest of vegetarians. It was fantastic, more so for the experience than the taste for me, but the perfect end to a great trip.