Merry Christmas and More

I fly home tomorrow night -- yippee! I'm looking forward to some time in the States, with family and close friends, and In-N-Out and Huckleberry's (my favorite brunch spot in LA). 

I had given myself these last few months to determine what I wanted to do during my time here. The job thing has only resulted in a few glimmers of hope, but as of now, that's all they are -- glimmers. So in January, the plan is to go back to school and continue Mandarin classes. I've also looked into volunteer opportunities at a couple of different NGOs, and classes in photo editing and website development. The challenge is things move slowly here, people take a long time to respond, and I may have to wait a month or two before the start of a new session. We'll see! I'll keep you all updated. 

Because I want to live in the moment while I'm home -- and since the moment will pass too quickly, I'm sure -- I'm putting the blog on pause again. In the meantime, enjoy the holiday season, act with kindness, be blessed and be thankful, and love unconditionally. 

Newtown, Conn./AP Photo/Jason Decrow

Hangzhou and Back

We took a spontaneous trip on Saturday to Hangzhou, about 100 miles southwest of Shanghai and a quick, cheap train ride. It's a beautiful place, set alongside the West Lake, the city's main attraction. We walked around the lake and rode a boat to one of its islets, but it was cold and rainy and perhaps not the best time of year to visit. We'll go back, though, to this charming place where hilltops replace skyscrapers. Here's my one and only photo from the 24-hour trip:  

P.S. I woke up on Saturday morning to the terrible news out of Connecticut. My heart broke, and it still aches as we learn more about what transpired the morning of December 14 at Sandy Hook Elementary School. As a nation, we've failed, we've failed our children. I hope that, finally, this tragedy, this one, will spur our nation into action -- action with regard to gun laws and action with regard to mental health care reform.

"We can't tolerate this anymore. These tragedies must end. And to end them, we must change. We will be told that the causes of such violence are complex, and that is true. No single law — no set of laws can eliminate evil from the world, or prevent every senseless act of violence in our society. But that can't be an excuse for inaction. Surely, we can do better than this." President Barack Obama, Dec. 16, 2012

Zhoumo kuaile!

We have a guest in town! It's been fun showing him the city and sharing our experiences with him, including eating soup dumplings and getting shirts made at the fabric market. Tonight, a new experience is in store for all of us: a Shanghai Sharks game. The Shanghai Sharks are a professional basketball team, known for developing Yao Ming before he crossed over to the NBA. And Gilbert Arenas is part of the team (if you know who that is; I didn't, but learned from the husband). Mike had mentioned wanting to become what Jack Nicholson is to the Lakers (buying court-side seats and season tickets, and doing what Jack does at Laker games). Maybe next season... We'll start with this one game.  

Enjoy the weekend! 

Still Riding

Remember the Tuesday night rides? Although we missed a few these last couple of months for various reasons (travel, illness), Mike and I are still participating and joined the crew last night for another ride across the river and around the city. The group is getting smaller as the temperature drops, and to be honest, I'm not sure how many more rides I have in me this winter -- it's cold out! We'll see. In the meantime, enjoy a new video produced by the bike shop guys (a.k.a. Factory Five). You'll see Shanghai in all its glory.  

A Word About Stinky Tofu

One cart I left out yesterday was the stinky tofu cart, which graces the street corner outside our apartment building every day at lunchtime. Stinky tofu is, quite literally, tofu that's stinky thanks to a fermentation process involving milk, veggies and meat. And you either love it or you hate it. Unfortunately, I fall in with the haters here. 

When Mike first told me about this staple dish, I thought I'd like it. It's fried tofu, and because I like tofu and everyone likes fried, what's not to like? Well, first, I'm proud to say that I got over the nostril-piercing stench and put a piece in my mouth. But that's when things went very wrong. It's no exaggeration when I say that it was as if I had put a professional athlete's sweat-soaked sock in my mouth and chewed. 

I don't denounce stinky tofu fans; I'm just not one of them. And now that I've learned more about it (i.e., "sanitation issues"), I think I'll steer clear for the foreseeable future.  

Carts!

Now that the summer heat is a distant memory (with the temperature these days in the 30s and 40s), carts have come out in full force, appearing on every street corner. They're essentially shops without walls, on mopeds or bicycles, that sell anything you can imagine -- from sweet potatoes to  toilet seats to teddy bears.  

Zhoumo kuaile!

Happy Friday, all! We got back to Shanghai yesterday evening and we're looking forward to a mellow weekend at home. The plan? Pick up our new winter coats we had made at the fabric market, and bundle up for a long bike ride to check out a "Christlkindlmarkt." Have you ever been to a Christmas market? They're big in Europe and feature vendors selling gifts and Christmas decorations, and food and drinks (think: mulled wine). Takes me back to my Strasbourg study abroad days. 

Photos from Chengdu are here and include lots more panda pics (although I have even more in my private collection; I spared you). 

P.S. My blog is now included in an expat blog directory (thank you, Kelly), which is currently holding its annual blog awards. If you like what you're reading, perhaps you'll want to write a nice comment here? No pressure whatsoever. 

Sichuan Street Food

I mentioned that Sichuan food was marked by spice, but it's not the kind of spice that makes your eyes tear or your nose run; it's the kind of spice, unlike any other I've had before, that makes your mouth numb. And it doesn't hit you all at once, it kind of sneaks up on you after a few bites.

Signature dishes include mapo tofu -- cubes of soft tofu with ground pork drenched in hot (as in red, spicy) oil and topped with seasonings -- and hot pot -- similar to what we've had in Beijing, but the "broth" here is hot oil. Sense a trend? Kung pao chicken (which is really "gong bao ji ding") also comes from this region of China, and, like mapo tofu, bursts with flavor. Interestingly enough, it's sweeter here, and not as spicy as most other Sichuan dishes.

The real treasures though are found on the streets: meat and tofu skewers coated with those renowned mouth-numbing spices, and rice cakes and noodles that come in a variety of  shapes and sizes, served in a variety of vessels, including pineapple and banana leaves. The famous Sichuan noodle dish is dan dan noodles -- fresh noodles (the kind where you can taste the difference) topped with ground pork and seasonings, tossed with hot oil (there it is again) and spices. 

Oh, did I forget to mention the rabbit heads? Yup, those are part of Sichuan fare. And no, I couldn't bring myself to eat one. 

A City on the Brink

A little bit about the city we're spending time in this week... I say it's on the brink because every other building is under construction. And these are not small, insignificant remodeling projects, these are massive structures being erected and finding their own place among existing high-rises. In fact, there are entire blocks in Chengdu -- from the giant Mao statue across from Tianfu Square to People's Park -- under construction or renovation. 

This probably doesn't help the air quality. It's terrible out, the kind of weather that makes you cough for no good reason and makes your eyes squint even though the sun's not in them. And anyway, the sun is hidden behind a thick layer of smog, or something of the sort. Remember this app? Yesterday, it told us it was hazardous to our health to be outside. 

"Chengdu for the future, for the world." Appropriate.

But the city has soul. In fact, if Shanghai is New York (we've heard the comparison before, and I would tend to agree; it's certainly more NYC than Paris, in my opinion), and if Beijing is D.C. (both being capitals and all), then Chengdu is Chicago. There's an emphasis on art and culture here -- music, performance, crafts -- and people are friendly. Its pedestrian walkways, Kuanzhai Alley and Jinli Ancient Street, offer lovely repose from the city's construction chaos. They're the heart. Both reflect ancient China, and although a Starbucks lives among the shops and vendors in both places, you're reminded that you're truly in China. I just hope Chengdu doesn't lose itself completely as it enters the next phase of its history, one surely marked by an economic explosion of epic proportions. 

(Additional photos from around town to be uploaded from Shanghai; cable forgotten at home. iPhone photos will have to do for now.) 

An Incredible Experience

I smile every time I think about what we did yesterday -- um... we sat next to a panda. A PANDA. A real life panda! It was amazing. And it took a lot of restraint for me not to put my arms around him and squeeze.

We got to the Chengdu Research Base of Giant Panda Breeding early Sunday morning. We were one of the first visitors there and began exploring in the cold, dense morning fog. The pandas hadn't even come out yet, so we headed to the Sunshine Nursery where we first saw this little guy... 

...and where we signed up for one-on-one panda time. When we first approached the keeper, Mike asked (in Chinese), "is this where we can sign up to hug a panda?" "There's no hugging the panda," she responded, "but you can sit next to one." Okay, we'll take it. (Even though I really, really wanted to hold one like a baby.)  

While we waited for our panda appointment, we toured the park, which we found to be really well-run and well-kept. We saw baby pandas, teenage pandas, and adult pandas; pandas in trees, pandas on the ground, and pandas on log beds; red pandas, twin pandas, and families of pandas; pandas eating, pandas sleeping, and pandas lounging.

A group of 10 of us had signed up for panda time. And yes, it was somewhat costly, but the $220 was considered a donation to research, and we also got a hoodie and a DVD out of the deal. When the panda was brought out, carried in the arms of its keeper (who was more so heaving the one-year old wild animal), you could feel the electricity of excitement in the air. As each of us took turns playing with the panda, the keeper continued to feed her (I think) sticks of bamboo dipped in honey, which helped her completely ignore the giggling adults surrounding her, giddy with delight. It was pure joy, and I was elated to have had the experience.    

Zhoumo kuaile!

In exciting news, tomorrow morning Mike and I are traveling to Chengdu, i.e. the land of PANDAS. He's there for work, and in keeping my resolution, I'm tagging along.  

Chengdu is home to a renowned panda research facility and conservation education center. We plan on visiting the Chengdu Research Base of Giant Panda Breeding -- its official name -- early Sunday morning, when, we've read, pandas are most active. Cost of entry isn't terribly expensive (under $10), but for a couple hundred dollars more, you can hold a (baby) panda. I don't know about you, but to me, this is a no-brainer -- and worth every penny (and those pennies go to research, if you need to justify the cost). I can't wait. Of course, photos (lots of them) to come. 

I'm researching what else there is to do in Chengdu, the capital of the Sichuan province in Southwest China. It's another big city, crowded with skyscrapers like Beijing and Shanghai, enjoying a thriving economy (Intel has a huge presence there with four factories totaling 600,000 square feet and two other buildings totaling 200,000 square feet). No doubt we'll try local dishes, known for their spice, and maybe Mike will agree to attend the Sichuan opera with me only because there's fire breathing involved. 

Source: Uploaded by user via Alexis on Pinterest

Post-Thanks in Macau

Our 36 hours in Macau were fun! After traveling on full bellies (we scarfed down a plate of leftovers before heading to the airport on Saturday), we arrived at Hotel Lisboa, which was just as cheesy as reviews said it would be -- upon entering, you look up at gold and crystal chandeliers; you look down to the floor covered in gold and navy blue mosaics; and you walk up a dual staircase wrapped in Christmas decorations from the 70s that leads guests to the check-in counter. It was fantastic. A clean and comfortable room was just a bonus. 

That night, we made our way to Alfonso III, a restaurant  frequented by locals featuring local fare, a fusion of Asian and Portuguese flavors. The shrimp curry was yummy. We then made our way to the blackjack table where lady luck was on our side and we doubled our money (and by "we," I mean me, kind of; I was sitting at the table while Mike told me when to hit, when not to hit, when to double-down, and when to split. Sometimes I listened, sometimes I didn't.) 

The next day, we went on a whirlwind sightseeing tour (photos here), all before lunch. We ate at Robuchon au Dome (our splurge), but I must admit, we were a bit disappointed (call us food snobs, call us what you will). After delicious appetizers (one of which was foie with a soft boiled egg, pictured below), the entrees didn't stand up to the first act. We spent the rest of the day in a few different casinos where we saw Bond (out in Macau, but not in China; and not because of censorship, but because the government doesn't want it to compete with Chinese movies currently out in theaters); we shopped (no import tax!); and we played poker (and by "we," I mean Mike; I sat next to him quietly observing, giving him no advice whatsoever.)     

Ways in which Macau is similar to Vegas: 

• Big, flashy casinos line the streets and light the night sky.  
• There's a Venetian here too, fully equipped with canals and gondolas. 
• You don't really need (or want) more than 48 hours there. 

Ways in which Macau is different:

• Gambling is way serious. There's no cheering when you win, and dealers barely crack a smile.
• It's smaller in scale -- not as many casinos, not as many shows, not as many famed restaurants.
• A former Portuguese colony, the city has an interesting history and a true mix of cultures. (They say that Shanghai is the Paris of Asia; I don't really see it. But I do agree that Macau is a sort of Asian Lisbon.) 

Giving Thanks from China

Our Thanksgiving was a success! We hosted eight people, most of whom had never had a traditional Thanksgiving meal. After finding every ingredient on our list (at four different markets), we overcame the next challenge -- our small single oven -- by making the side dishes ahead of time and reheating them once the turkey was out and resting.

The Americans of the group shared the Thanksgiving story, and we went around the table sharing what we were thankful for. Just like back home! I deemed the holiday a success when each guest got seconds, requests were made for doggy bags, and leftovers were minimal. 

A Macau recap to be posted tomorrow.  

Happy Thanksgiving!

The turkey is in the oven, the sides are almost done, and we made our last grocery run this morning for more wine (can't run out of that). 

I hope you all enjoyed a fantastic meal with family and friends. I'll post photos of our Thanksgiving next week, because tomorrow, we're off to Macau! In the meantime, know that while you were watching football, we were watching this (jealous?): 

Thanksgiving prep begins

Here's what's on the menu for Friday:

• Deviled eggs (as an app) 
• Turkey (of course) and its stuffing 
• Green bean casserole
• Crème fraîche mashed potatoes 
• Spinach gratin
• Cranberry sauce (of the canned variety) 
• Apple crisp and brownies for dessert (very American, no?) 

I've gone to three different markets so far in search of our ingredients and all that's missing now is mayonnaise (for the deviled eggs), and frozen spinach and green beans, which could be a slight problem seeing as how they're two stars of the show. It's funny how turkey and canned cranberry sauce were the easy-to-find items (we ordered the turkey from a foreigner-friendly butcher and found the cranberry sauce at a foreigner-friendly grocery store). 

Tomorrow is Thursday and a work day here in China, so we're celebrating Friday night as you all wake up for Black Friday -- and after you've given thanks for what you already have ;). Grocery shopping and prepping to be continued.  

Back from Beijing

In addition to walking through Jingshan Park and taking advantage of hotel amenities, I visited the Summer Palace in northwest Beijing, about an hour subway ride from where we were staying. It reminded me of Central Park with its miles of green, its bodies of water, and its hidden treasures (here, pavilions, halls, and temples). I hadn't realized how much ground there was to cover, and really didn't leave myself much time to see the whole thing. I imagine I'll go back in the spring with visitors (you, perhaps?), and enjoy it even more when the weather is warm and the flowers are in bloom.

More photos from the trip here. 

We went back to Dadong for roast duck, and tried the Beijing staple at another restaurant, Duck de Chine. Both were fantastic, but Duck de Chine may have won out with its homemade hoisin sauce. Our other dinner was at Mike's go-to hot pot restaurant, where, yes, noodles were flung over heads.  

Zhoumo kuaile!

A quick post -- after the long journey back to Shanghai from Beijing -- to wish you a happy weekend. More on the trip to come next week.

Side Note

You haven't lived until you've gone on the Beijing subway at rush hour. I would have taken a picture, but I couldn't get to the phone in my pocket. Sardines? More like grains of sand in an hour glass, flipped each time the subway train comes to a stop (except here, flow is two-way instead of one-directional). I was being pushed and I was pushing back -- the only way to do it if you actually want to get off at your desired station. Here's a photo I found on the web, but it's truly something you have to experience.

Source: noiamnotaladyboy.blogspot.com via Alexis on Pinterest

The Joys of Hotel Living

I mentioned high-speed Internet and a fully-equipped gym, but there's also the glorious shower whose head hangs high and releases a copious amount of purified water (it's a thing of beauty when living with very low water pressure in Shanghai). And last but certainly not least on the list is the Toto toilet, who lifts its cover and warms its seat for you (among other services rendered). Where other toilets have a simple handle, Toto has this:    

I may or may not have pushed
every button. 

Walking Beijing

I did a lot of walking today, but I don't have much to show for it, having reached only one tourist destination -- Jingshan Park -- for a view of the Forbidden City and the city at large.

Better photos (from the "real" camera) to be uploaded
when I get back to Shanghai

The walk itself, however, was fascinating. You may know that Chinese officials are currently gathered in Beijing for the 18th Party Congress and the once-in-a decade transition of power. Policemen stand guard every 500 feet along the street that houses government buildings and hotels, all adorned with dozens of Chinese flags that today, waved violently in bone-chilling wind. The city is on lockdown.  

On my own for lunch and nowhere near a foreigner-friendly establishement, I settled on this:

No, that's not a tomato. I think it was a piece of meat, Spam-like in texture, but I wasn't willing to find out. The remainder of the sandwich -- a fried egg and lettuce -- was quite good, actually.

The rest of my day involved finding places to warm up (it's 30-some degrees here!): a huge bookstore (in what is aptly named the Beijing Books Building) with "Why and How the CPC Works in China" and the philosophies by Marx/Lenin/Engels/Stalin skillfully placed at the its entrance; and a Starbucks. 

We're in Beijing!

We spent most of today traveling by train from Shanghai to Beijing, and although the landscapes were beautiful (think: farms and fields and small villages), I slept most of the way thanks to our 5:00 a.m. wake-up call. 

And this evening, we went snowboarding. Didn't know there was snowboarding in Beijing? Me neither. But if there was any kind of snowboarding to be found in the city's vicinity, my husband would be the one to find it. The "mountain" was an indoor ski slope just outside the city; as you can imagine, expectations were low. Once inside what looked like two or three merged warehouses, we were pleasantly surprised to find two decent-sized bunny slopes, one slightly bigger than the other, with a jump and rails for Mike, and soft "snow" for me. This was certainly no Squaw, but it was a fun couple of hours that made up for missing opening day -- which Mike hasn't missed for the last 10 or so years.

Zhoumo kuaile!

It's cold and rainy here in Shanghai this weekend, and my guess is that a golf outing we had planned with friends will be replaced with a movie (Bourne seems to be the only decent English option; have you seen it?). And no, I don't golf, but I'm told I should learn and I'm game. My first lesson, however, will have to take place another day, it seems. 

On a more exciting note, Mike and I are off to Beijing on Monday. I’m accompanying him on a business trip, something I had told myself I’d do going forward, taking advantage of my current situation (that being unemployed). Although I wish our destination were a new city (I traveled to Beijing back in August), I’ll have more time to explore during this trip, and see the sites I missed last time, like the Summer Palace. 

But who am I kidding? I’m also going to take advantage of his hotel’s high-speed Internet and fancy gym with pool.

Bike Trip Video

Remember our ride to Chongming Island? A fellow cyclist (the talented Derryck Menere) created this awesome video of the trip. Keep an eye out for us! (I'm in the mint green with white polka dots shorts, sporting a pink shell half-way through; Mike has on a basketball jersey. And you know what our bikes look like.)

Obama Re-elected

As planned, Robin and I spent most of today in a hotel ballroom turned red, white and blue with balloons, party hats and flower arrangements. Very patriotic indeed. We were glued to the large screens, watching the numbers change and yellow turn to red or blue on CNN's electoral map. The atmosphere was marked by cautious optimism on all sides. 

When Ohio turned, some applause broke out, but I got the sense that attendees wanted to be respectful of one another's desired outcome. Once CNN projected Obama's win, applause grew louder and you could feel the excitement in the room. At that point, most people chose to leave and get back to their day, but Robin and I closed out the party by staying for the speeches. And though I try to remain mum on politics (lessons learned), tonight I go to sleep a happy and proud American.  

"We remain more than a collection of red states and blue states. We are and forever will be the United States of America." President Barack Obama, November 6, 2012

Treasure Hunting

As planned, Mike and I ventured over to Pudong (across the river) on Saturday morning in search of the antique market we had read about on a fellow Shanghai cyclist's blog. Bike riding in Pudong was lovely: the streets were wide open and empty, rendering the bike lane nice, certainly, but unnecessary.

We rode alongside a number of buildings that had been erected for the 2010 World Expo -- something we had done before, but on the other side of the river (our side, Puxi). Representing different exhibiting countries, each building is unique in its size, shape, color, and design. But with the Expo long over, many of these buildings are now abandoned and lifeless. The scene was eerie at times, especially given it looked like this only a few years ago.  

Credit goes to Mike and his sense of direction; after veering off the empty roads and making a few turns onto more crowded streets, we reached our destination by turning right down a dirt path. Come to find out it wasn't so much a market as it was a large, one-story room.

It didn't look like much from the outside, but once you walked inside, the room quickly turned into a warehouse -- with stuff piled on top of stuff, and more stuff in every direction you'd turn. Narrow pathways led you to the back and to either side of the cold, dark warehouse that held years' worth of junk and treasures. I kept thinking of the field day reality TV characters (on shows like Spike's "Auction Hunters" or The Discovery Channel's "Dirty Money") would have at a place like this.  

We scoped it out and quickly decided to come back the next day with Bob. Treasures we found on this hunt: two bamboo ladders and an old watering jug made of cherry wood. The plan is to restore them (project!) and go huntin' again soon. 

Zhoumo kuaile!

Happy weekend, everyone! 

No big plans for this weekend (after last weekend’s excitement) other than keeping our cycling legs in shape by going on a long (but not that long) bike ride Saturday or Sunday morning -- perhaps to the Shanghai Pudong Antique Market where we’ll hunt for hidden treasures. I’ve been itching to make our apartment look more like us than a generic, oversized hotel room.

On another note, I received confirmation in the mail yesterday that I’m registered to vote from China, and I just faxed my ballot in from the Ritz-Carlton’s business center. How much does it cost to exercise one’s right to vote from China? Approximately $10.50. All in the name of democracy!

Along with most of you on Tuesday night, my lovely friend Robin and I will be catching the election results Wednesday morning at a party jointly hosted by the American Chamber of Commerce, the U.S. Consulate General and the American Women’s Club of Shanghai. 

"OK" -- two letters that tell me
my vote is in.

P.S. Invitations have been sent and the turkey has been ordered for our first Thanksgiving in Shanghai! We’re having friends from my Chinese class over; three Germans, two Brazilians and one Russian will be joining four Americans for a traditional turkey dinner with all the fixins. More to come on the actual execution of this dinner, given our small kitchen, undersized oven, and hard-to-find ingredients. We're up for the challenge!