Tuesday, July 31, 2012

A Visit to Wedding Row

As the countdown to wedding day begins (we're now less than eight weeks away!), I'm trying to take care of the last remaining items, which include the purchase of a veil. Luckily for me, one of my very lovely classmates is in the German wedding industry and works with dress suppliers here in China. Today, after class, she took me to "wedding row", located in a particular section of a major subway stop. There, we found dozens of shops catering to future brides, filled with gowns and shoes and favors for guests. Most of it wasn't my style (think: big, embroidered and pouffy, lined with crystals), but it was fun to "kan yixiar" (just look; pronounced, "kan yisha"). Although I managed to communicate slightly better than a one-year-old, most places didn't have the simplicity I was looking for in a veil, and the quality was questionable. 

In case you're curious about price, the one and only veil I was considering came to about $13, to which I replied, "tai gui le" (too expensive; pronounced, "tie gway le"). I had actually misunderstood 800RMB for 80RMB (8 and hundred sound very similar!). She came down to $8, but we left, mostly because the quality seemed shoddy. Thankfully, Ayla will ask her supplier to make the veil I have in mind, and I won't be paying much more than $8.

Side story: On the subway ride home, we were approached by a very friendly Chinese girl who wanted to practice her English with us. She first asked if we were French (as a francophile, she won me over right there and then). She then proceeded to tell me I had beautiful eyes and beautiful, dark eyebrows. Way to make my day! Compliments aside, it was the friendliest encounter I've had with a local thus far.   

Monday, July 30, 2012

Ikea Recap

The trip to Ikea was glorious: not only did we find a utensil organizer and a baking sheet both small enough to fit in a Chinese kitchen drawer and oven, but we also bore witness to the experience that is Ikea in China. (Come to find out that the megastore actually encourages its visitors to come and spend the day there! Check it out.)   

Here are some pics from our outing:

Feeding baby in the Dining section of Ikea

I think someone was in here.

Did someone shop too hard?


Friday, July 27, 2012

Have a zhoumo kuaile

Can you guess what a "zhoumo kaile" is yet?

Mike and I are heading to Ikea on Saturday (thanks to Bob, of course). We need things like baking sheets and a utensil organizer; ours are too big for our Chinese oven and kitchen drawers. (Everything is bigger in America!) 

Apparently, going to Ikea is an adventure. Not only is it crazy crowded (on weekends especially), but in China, it's more than just somewhere to buy household goods and furniture -- it's an experience. We've heard that Chinese families go on "Ikea outings": mom, dad, the kids, and even grandma and gramps head over with packed lunches and picnic in Ikea kitchens, socialize in Ikea living rooms, and lounge on Ikea couches. To be honest, I'm more excited about witnessing this phenomenon than purchasing kitchenware. 

In other news, I've been a bit of mess this week with a rash on my upper lip and nose and a swollen left eye. There are probably several factors at play, but I think allergies to the heat and the air pollution are the root causes. Not wanting to suffer through the weekend, I went to a clinic today, one we visited during our orientation tour. Nothing like the required medical examination, my doctor's appointment was just like one I'd have in the States (weight, body temperature, and blood pressure check before going in to see the doctor). The doctor who saw me was a kind and gentle Asian Australian man who could tell right away I had conjunctivitis. He prescribed a nose spray and an antihistamine, and I was on my way. Can you tell my eye is all puffy?
  

Thursday, July 26, 2012

Shanghai Summer Fashion

I've been wanting to write a fashion entry since our arrival in Shanghai, but it's hard capturing trends incognito.  I'm not at the point (yet!) where I can stop people on the streets and tell them that their photo will be featured on a popular American blog.  Instead, I've resorted to taking pictures with my iPhone while walking to class or having lunch, remaining inconspicuous.  

The number one trend we've seen among Shanghai's young and hip is glasses without lenses. This trendsetter matches her eyewear to her top.
Chinglish isn't contained to street signs and restaurant menus; some of the best and most incomprehensible phrases are on t-shirts. (The one below reads, "Only you care when.") 
The sandals and flip flops are great here. It seems as if the bigger the bow, the better. See above and below. Don't the ones below remind you of Minnie Mouse?   
Along with lens-free glasses, the bib is another must-have accessory this summer, making an appearance below in a Miu Miu storefront. 
Short, nude stockings are all over Shanghai, worn by young and old, with open-toed shoes and capris or skirts. (I myself will be skipping this trend; if anything, I'll settle for glasses without lenses before rocking nude stockings.)  


Tuesday, July 24, 2012

Expats in the News

Two posts in one day; crazy, I know. But I quickly wanted to share an article and a podcast that were sent to me (thank you, Fran, Nav, Mom, and Kelly). They both depict the expat's experience in China, and there are certainly aspects reported in the two to which I can relate. For your reading pleasure, click here; for your listening pleasure (it's 55 minutes well spent), click here. Enjoy! (And if you do end up listening to "This American Life" -- no, I have not yet been asked to appear on television, and if I'm asked, I'll politely decline.) 

Preliminary Pics

In response to the requests, below are a couple of photos of the apartment. We couldn't manage to put our art up just yet (we learned the hard way that nails don't go through the walls here). 
Living room (the touch of color is ours); Do you see the ugly lamp?; I can often be found on that chaise, blogging or doing my homework
Bedroom; Notice my hat for Bali?; I think that little table on the windowsill is for breakfasts in bed (it has not yet been put to use, unfortunately)

More/updated pics to come.

Monday, July 23, 2012

So we have a driver

And his name is Bob. I haven't told you this yet, because it's crazy for me to even come to terms with the fact that someone has been hired to drive us (mostly Mike, but sometimes me) around town.  

We've rubbed off on Bob a bit, introducing him to American music and teaching him American colloquialisms. (He said f* the other day, but we can't be held accountable for that one. He learned it from the movies, he told us.) I practice my Mandarin with him, and he practices his English with me. I often ask him (in Mandarin) what he ate for breakfast or lunch that day and every time, he answers (in English), "pork over rice." He may very well be eating pork over rice every day for breakfast and lunch, but I'm hoping our conversation develops into something a bit deeper over time.  

Here's Bob, and here's a short video of us with Bob:       

Friday, July 20, 2012

Have a zhoumo kuaile


What are your plans? Now that Mike has his golf clubs, he's anxious to go to the driving range and hit some balls. We'll also do the last of the unpacking, and get our art and photos up on our boring white walls. Pictures of the apartment to come, I promise. Otherwise, I'm sure a Chinese crêpurrito will be in order at some point this weekend, and we're planning on a new foodie experience with friends Saturday night. 

I recently realized that our wedding is only TWO months away, and I should probably get back into wedding mode. I gave myself the last eight weeks or so to fully immerse myself and adjust to my new life, trying to keep the wedding talk and thought to a serious minimum. But now that the day is quickly approaching, I'm freaking out a bit. But freaking out in a super happy/giddy/excited kind of way.    

Thursday, July 19, 2012

More Lessons Learned

With every new day comes a new lesson to add to the list.  Here are some: 
  • You will get ripped off if you're not Chinese. Cold, hard fact. Get used to it because it will likely happen more than once. (In Beijing, it happens even if you are Chinese. Ask Mike if he likes Beijing cab drivers.) 
  • You will get stared at if you're not Chinese. Get used to this too. (I tend to just stare back; or smile; or say, "Ni hao!") 
  • It's totally normal for motorcyclists to ride (fast) on (crowded) sidewalks. 
  • I mentioned the lack of a pedestrian's right-of-way, but I've also learned that hitting a Westerner results in a higher fine than hitting a fellow countryman. Go figure.

And with lessons learned comes the start of a Shanghai Survival Guide:
  • Try to make eye contact with drivers. Once they see that you're a Westerner, they may slow down (or swerve around you). 
  • Have no fear. (This one's for you, dad.) No fear when crossing an intersection, walking down the street, or leaving the comfort of your apartment to venture out into the world beyond it. 
  • Be open-minded, try new things, and don't ask too many questions, as in: How did the restaurant prepare my meal so quickly? What kind of meat or fish am I eating? Where did this piece of meat or fish come from? Has this produce been rinsed properly? At a certain point, if you want to eat, you just have to go with it and not think too much about it. I've fared well with this approach so far -- and have had some wonderful meals and tasted all kinds of new things. 
  • Be accepting. Smile at the differences. See the beauty in the experience.  

Wednesday, July 18, 2012

Christmas in July

Our shipment arrived yesterday! Although it was exhausting unpacking 29 boxes on my own (Mike is in Beijing this week), it's nice to be surrounded by things from home. And it's not the stuff, it's the memories that come with the stuff -- the orange sweater my mom knitted for me to wear on cold San Francisco days; the quilt my aunt made for me six years ago that we cuddle up with on the couch; the Frenchie mixing bowls we received from our friends Nav and Ryan, our very first wedding present. Needless to say, I got a little homesick when putting things away (the sappy music I was listening to didn't help). And although the ugly lamps are still here, our place certainly feels a lot more like a home than a hotel room.  
Our Shanghai fridge with touches of home

As a reward for unpacking, rearranging and organizing, I got a mani/pedi today. I walked half a block down the street and turned right into an alleyway. Mike and I had walked by this place not too long ago to check it out, and it seemed clean and certainly more than adequate. There were no big massage chairs or piles of US magazines, but it was a nice, little space with three velour armchairs, a plant, and bottles of polish lined up neatly on two shelves on the wall. I managed to ask for a mani/pedi and color (colored polish requires more money), and even made a little small talk with the manicurist as she worked on my hands. I told her my Chinese is very bad, but I go to Mandarin school; I told her my husband (I wasn't about to get into the whole fiance/future husband thing) works and he speaks Mandarin and his parents are Chinese; I told her I was American; I told her my house was over there (and pointed). And that was about the extent of it. Not bad though, right? 

Monday, July 16, 2012

What wedding diet?

What did you do this weekend? We spent our time eating (what's new?) and exploring. Friday night, we tried Guyi, a Hunan restaurant not too far from our place. Hunan usually means spicy, but in this case, it was a bit of spice and a lot of taste. We ordered sauteed eggplant and string beans, fried fish in some kind of sweet red sauce (a dish Mike has had before and swears by), and sweet and sour beef. A few things to note before I move on:

  1. Most restaurant menus in Shanghai are ten to 20 pages long. 
  2. Thankfully, almost all of them have pictures; some of them have funny translations
  3. It's no wonder that they may be out of what you order (out of 100+ options, they have to run out of a few items on some nights). 
  4. Food comes out almost instantly. "How is this possible," you ask? I think I'd prefer not to know. Let's move on.  

After we started on our eggplant dish (delicious, by the way), a waitress approached Mike and told him they didn't have the beef; we ordered ribs instead. As we waited for our next two dishes, the waitress again came to our table to tell us that they didn't have the fish. Taken off guard by the fact that two out of our three dishes were no longer options, Mike quickly ordered "pine nut, rice cake and beef dice." It's always fun to see what will actually come out! Moments later, we were served the ribs (rubbed with a dry mixture of chili, garlic, cumin and other spices) and the "dice" dish -- which we know as lettuce wraps. The food was fantastic, and in the end, we were happy with what we ended up having.  

Saturday was Bastille Day; French food required. We ended up at Brasserie La Fourchette. And even though it was twice the price, the food was equally as good: steak tartare (yes, that's raw meat; yes, we're still alive and well), artichokes with blue cheese and a touch of olive tapenade, pork belly and duck confit. In case you're worried I won't fit into my wedding dress, these were small plates. Vive la France! 

And I've saved the food highlight of the weekend for last -- what I call Chinese crêpurritos. As we explored the neighborhood Saturday morning, picking up a few fruits and veggies from the Avocado Lady, we stopped by the "Crêpurrito Lady." She is a one-woman show, standing behind a large, circular hot plate that looks like the same one used to make crêpes. After covering the hot plate in a thin layer of dough (just as you would if you're making a crêpe), she cracks an egg on top of the dough and throws on a mixture of green onion, cilantro and diced pickled something. She folds it in half and brushes on a layer of thick plum sauce. Before folding it again, she adds a large piece of fried dough, then gives the whole thing a karate chop (I kid you not) and cuts it in half. Each bite is a harmony of flavors and consistencies. For about sixty cents, it's an awesome little breakfast (and a very decent substitute for the breakfast burritos we miss so much).      

Friday, July 13, 2012

Have a relaxing weekend

We finally did it -- a foot massage! And it was lovely. And worth every one of those 20 dollars. Of course, we had heard about foot massages before arriving in Shanghai ("they're so cheap, you can get one every day!"); we just hadn't gotten around to it. Last night, on a whim, we went for the big splurge.

After picking our service (a 60-minute foot massage) and choosing a three-star massage therapist (versus five-star, which is slightly more expensive), the hostess took us to a two-person room where we plopped down on big, comfy chairs and turned on our small TV. We were then brought warm tea and watermelon, and waited comfortably for our masseuses. Two young ladies came in with large buckets of piping hot tea water. Following Mike's lead (he had done this before with his parents), I put my feet in the bucket and sat on the ottoman while my masseuse started on my neck and shoulders. It was painfully wonderful. After maybe 15 minutes, we sat back into our chairs and they started on our feet. They began massaging, placing just enough pressure on particular spots of each foot to make me feel like jello. This went on for a solid 35 minutes. Next, they wrapped our legs in warm towels and finished up with five minutes of gentle hammering, using what looked like doctors' reflex hammers. That might have been my favorite part. When it was all over, we slipped on our flip-flops and walked home on what felt like clouds.  

Thursday, July 12, 2012

More Fun on the Walk to School

I told you all that I walk by the Jingan Temple on my way to Mandarin class, but I don't think I've brought up the fact that every morning I'm witness to daily Chinese street performances. I have yet to determine whether these performances are workout routines helping to keep 60 to 70-year-old women in shape, or choreographed dances for the pleasure of a viewing public... Either way, in a little square across the street from the temple, groups of individuals, sometimes in costumes or uniforms, gather and move together to music or the count of an instructor ("liu, qi, ba! 6, 7, 8!"). Here a few photos I snatched on my walk to school (and if you have a better explanation for what these individuals are doing, let me know!):

Wednesday, July 11, 2012

Did I mention?

As we anxiously await our shipment from the U.S. (it's in China somewhere going through customs), we've spent some time exploring our neighborhood. Of course, there's the Jingan Temple a few blocks up and the Avocado Lady around the corner. But did I mention that we may very well be living in the red-light district of Shanghai? Across the street are about a dozen bars with names like "Route 66," "New York Bar," and "L.A. Club Bar." (You'd think we'd feel right at home with names like that!) On our walk back to the apartment one weekday evening, we noticed about five to six girls in each bar, hanging around, or chatting up one of the few guys in the place. 

Through our fellow expats, we've heard the horror stories: foreign men (preferably older, white and wealthy) accosted by aggressive Asian women as they walk down the street. Instead of the "lady, you want bag?" at the fake markets, it's "you want massage?" for the guys on the streets of Shanghai.  

And maybe I'm exaggerating, maybe we don't live in Shanghai's red-light district (although according to this article, there are 21 red-light areas in Shanghai's central districts).  Maybe  it was just "girls' night out" when we walked home that night -- at one bar, and the one next door, and the next one after that. And maybe that purse is a real Jimmy Choo purse; maybe a massage is really just a massage. I'll let you draw your own conclusions.      

P.S. I'm lucky that my man is an Asian guy who looks more like a 20-year-old skateboarder than a wealthy businessman. 

Monday, July 9, 2012

I'm social

In my attempt to be the best communicator I can be, I'm on a few different platforms. It's a safe bet that if you're reading this, we're already Facebook friends. I'm also on Google+ and Twitter, but I'm not terribly active in either space (I'm more what they call a lurker). 

What you might be most interested in, however, is Instagram (follow me, I'm lexg519) and Flickr, where I've uploaded Shanghai photos. (Flickr also houses some of my older photos dating back to 2005, in case you're interested and have too much time on your hands.)   

And did you know that you can customize the way you view my blog? Mouse over the word Classic in the upper left and choose which way you'd prefer to see my entries. While you're at it, you should SUBSCRIBE to my blog (it would make me feel special and loved if you did so). Place your cursor on the right side of the page and you'll see the Subscribe button under About Me and Blog Archive.    

Enjoy and be social! 

Friday, July 6, 2012

Have a good weekend

So it turns out that Malone's has this "Bud and Dog" special every Wednesday. Lame. But our celebration of the Fourth was enjoyable, even if we did miss out on fireworks this year. (Mike threatened to go out and buy some, and launch some of our own, but perhaps we'll save that for next year.) We were joined by a couple of my friends from class and their husbands, and drank our Buds as we listened to the not-so-terrible (but not great) cover band that played classics like "Jack & Diane," "Glory Days," and Miley Cyrus' "Party in the U.S.A."  (Note the hint of sarcasm.)   
   
Mike left for Tokyo yesterday and will be there until next Tuesday, which means I'm left to my own devices for a whole weekend and more. I'm not terribly thrilled by this, but I plan on keeping myself busy. I may go to the Pearl Market (sounds fun, right?) with Sandy tomorrow, and meet up with friends in the evening. I'm also looking forward to a few phone dates with friends back home, and I don't doubt that the 10 or so pages of Mandarin homework will occupy a good portion of my Sunday.  
                            
                               Celebratory Buds
Wearing our red, white and blue (as best we can)

Wednesday, July 4, 2012

Happy Fourth!

So, what are you doing to celebrate? Do you only have Wednesday off, or the rest of the week as well? Mike and I were wondering that today at lunch (and what a jip if we happen to miss the year the Fourth lands on a Wednesday with the rest of workweek off!).  

There are a few events around Shanghai celebrating the US of A. One is at a restaurant/bar named glo London. But it just doesn't seem right to celebrate our independence from the Kingdom of Great Britain at glo London. Then there's something happening at De Refter. But that doesn't sound appropriate either. Instead, we'll be heading over to Malone's for today's special -- a hotdog and a cold Budweiser for RMB48 (about $6). God bless America. 

Tuesday, July 3, 2012

We're not just taitais

There were some annoyances last week with the new apartment, which is often the case when you first move in to a place. It was silly stuff like, the toilet seat hadn't been properly installed and the dryer stopped every five minutes for no apparent reason. Yes, these were somewhat insignificant, but try dealing with them in Chinese. I thank my lucky stars every night for Mike (and his ability to speak the language).   

My frustrations were contrasted with a lovely lunch I had with the ladies in my Mandarin course -- Robin, the American who has lived in Ireland most recently; Ayla, the Turkish-born German; Nannapat, the Thai married to a Brit; and Anna, the Russian engaged to a German. One day after class, we took the opportunity to get to know each other a bit better and grab lunch together. We chatted about our families, our homes, our professions; about the difficult decision to move to China; about the sacrifice we (happily) made for our partners. I looked around the table and saw four smart women, ambitious and adventurous, excited and eager to immerse themselves in their new culture. Even though I had just met them, I felt as if I had more in common with them than my fellow countrywomen, many of whom relish their lives here as "taitais" (=wife in Mandarin, but with the negative connotation of a wealthy housewife). By the end of lunch, they had convinced me to join them for an additional month of Mandarin classes. Although the session will end right as I leave to go back home (for our wedding!), I'm looking forward to spending more time with these seemingly fabulous women.  

Monday, July 2, 2012

Summer in Shanghai

One lesson I forgot to list is, "go back to where you came from in the summer." Apparently, expats flee Shanghai come July and August due to the heat, which is suffocating on its own, but made worse by the number of cars and people in this city (not to mention the pollution). Families split up; wives (in many cases) take their kids (in some cases) back to Europe and the States to wait out Shanghai's summer months. A few businesses even close, and organizations like the American Women's Club cease their activities.  

I'm not sure I could just abandon Mike here, even though stepping foot outside is stepping into an oven -- a stifling 95 degrees today with 45 percent humidity. Don't get me wrong, I love heat, but I love dry heat, especially the kind that includes the occasional ocean breeze. I've been spoiled, what can I say? Extreme heat and humidity just aren't my thing.  

I suppose I shouldn't be complaining with many of my friends and family on the East Coast suffering from their own record temperatures, severe thunderstorms, and power outages. Be safe and cool out there!